Foundation garment



J. V., HOLLAR FOUNDATION GARMENT Filed March 25, 19 15 INVENII'OR LIEIHN VI HULLAR ATTORNEY Patented May 21, 1945 'U'l'iED STATES PATENT OFFICE FOUNDATION GARMENT John V. Hollar, Bridgeport, Conn assignor to The La Resista Corset Company, Bridgeport,0onn., a corporation of Connecticut Application March 23, 1945, Serial No. 584,284"

3 Claims.

The present invention relates to 'an improvement in foundation garments, and-particularly a foundation garment in'which is combined 'a corset structure and a brassiere structure, the latter being permanently associated with the corset structure through thebackpart common to both structures, and including a front section cooperatively related'with the frontsection of the corset structure so that there'is relative controlled movement between them, depending upon the posture of the wearer.

It is an object of the invention to provide a garment wherein the brassire structure effectually remains in supporting'relation with the bust of the wearer when the wearer assumes different postures, such as standing; bending backward, sitting, and bending forward, while permitting the corset structure, and particularly that portion engaged with the abdomen-and diaphragm of the wearer, to move relatively to' the brassiere structure, as the front line of the body assumes various curved forms and becomes lengthened and shortened. It is proposed to'accomplish this object without creating excessive pressures upon and crowding of the partsof the body, and also without creating wrinkles or bulges in the garment structure which would impede thesmooth working relative movement ofthe brassiere and corset structures with respect to each other.

Garments have been devised, heretofore, wherein relatively movable corset and .brassiere struc tures werecombined, and in certain of these elasticshoulder straps have been employed. As the distance between the supporting points of the shoulders upon which the shoulder straps are engaged (and the busts is a substantiallyfixed distance, variations in the curve. and length of the body resulting from the assuming of different postures do not take place along this shoulder to bust distance, but do occur to a great degree belowthe bust line. 1 Previous arrangements have been unsatisfactory, as they would cause an upwardor downward shifting of the brassirepor- 7 tion upon assuming different posture. The elastic shoulder straps would allow the brassiere portion to b'eforced downwardly with respect to the bust upon a lengtheninglof the forward line of the body, as for instance, in bending backward.

It is an object of the present invention to .provide a garment wherein these faults areobviated, and to this end it is proposed to provide a garment having substantially non-elastic shoulder straps, and wherein an elasticpsuspension means is provided centrally between theupper edge of the brassire structure and the upper edge of the corset structure, the latter being disposed in'underlying relation to the lower portion of the brassiere structure. Thus, the brassiere structure remains in a substantially fixed relation to the shoulder line while permitting the brassireand corset parts of the garmentto automatically adjust themselves to' the'body length as the body curves forward or backward, or sideways, the elastic suspension means maintaining the relatively movable garment parts in smooth fitting relation and exerting a force thereon to return the parts of the garment to their normal relation upon assuminga standingposture.

A further object is to provide a garment whereinthe lower edge of the upper section of the brassiere structure is connected at each side substantially at or below the waistline and arches upwardly between its ends, so that the corset structure will positively return to its normal position in underlying relation to the brassiere structure, upon resuming a, normal standing posture fol-lowing'a" forward or a rearward bending posture. This-advantageous efict is due to the fact that by carrying of theends' of the lower edges of the'brassire structure substantially'to the waistline, the overlapping relation of the brassiere and corsetstructures is maintained in any position of relative movement between them, while the upwardly archededge between the secured ends prevents obstruction or jamming of the lower band or yoke of the brassire structure so that it is free to move downward to the desired limit in assuming a sittingor forward bending posture, the action of *the upwardly arched edge bein entirely above the waistline.

It is further proposed to provide a brassiere structure wherein the lower edges of the bust pockets intersect and extend partially belowthe upper edges of the front'corset structure, so that the garment'will readily adapt itself to personsof varying bust size and form, while still maintaining proper support of the body and fit of the garment.

A further object is to provide a garment wherein the elastic suspension means between the corset and brassiere structures permits limited independent action of the bust pockets at each side upon raising of an arm and lifting of the shoulder at one'side while the other arm and shoulder remain lowered. L

With .the'above and other objects in view, an embodiment of the inventionis shown in the accompanying drawing, and this embodiment will behereinafter more fully described with reference thereto, and the invention will be finally pointed out in the claims.

In the drawing: I

Fig. l is a front elevation of a foundation garment, according to the illustrated exemplary embodiment of the invention, disposed in flattened relation, and with the side opening shown in its open position.

Fig. 2 is a view, partially in rear elevation and partially in vertical section, showing the inner side of the front of the garment.

Fig. 3 is a vertical sectional view, taken along the line 3-3 of Fig. 2, the back portion of the garment being broken away.

Fig. 4 is a vertical sectional view, similar to Fig. 3, showing the position of the garment in a bending backward posture of the wearer.

Fig. 5 is a vertical sectional view, similar to Fig. 3, showing the position of the garment in a sitting posture of the wearer.

Similar reference characters indicate corresponding parts throughout the several figures of the drawing.

, Referring to the drawing, the foundation garment, according to the illustrated embodiment of the invention comprises a back part 50 which may be of any suitable form, and is therefore not further illustrated in detail. To the substantially vertical side edges I l-ll of the back part there are secured elastic rearward side sections l2-l2 which are stretchable laterally, but are non-stretchable vertically, and which extend from the bottom edge of the garment substantially to the waistline i l, a non-elastic forward side section l5 being secured to the forward edge of the elastic section l2 at each side, and also extending from the lower edge of the garment to the waistline. Above the waistline there is provided at each side a non-elastic side section It a of the upper brassiere part of the garment, their rearward edges being secured to the side edges I I of the back part It], their lower edges being secured along the waistline to the upper edges of the side sections l2 and I5, and their forwardedges being in substantially vertical line with the forward edges of the side sections l5.

The front part of the garment is secured between the forward edges of the forward side sections l5 and the upperbrassiere side sections l6, being permanently secured at one side along the entire length of these edges by a substantially vertical seam l1, and being secured along the other edge by a permanent seam 18 extending between the lower edge of the garment and a point substantially spaced below the waistline, the cooperating edges above the seam 18 being provided with suitable fastener means, so that these edges may be opened and closed for the purpose of putting on and taking off the garment. The fastening means shown consists of a zipper fastening l9, extending from the upper end of the seam I 8 to a point a short distance above the waistline, this zipper fastening being provided with a pair of hook and eye fasteners 20 for preliminarily fastening the garment, and

"above the zipper fastener in the brassiere part of the garment there is provided a series of hook and eye fasteners 2| extending to the upper edge of the garment.

The front part of the garment with which the present invention is particularly concerned, comprises generally a lower panel portion constituting the front of the corset structure of the garment, and an upper brassire portion constituting the front of the brassiere structure of the ing secured to the forward edges of the side sections I5 and the brassire side sections l6 along the seam lines H and 18, one part of the zipper fastener being secured to the outer edge of one of the side panel sections 23 above the seam l8. Centrally of the lower edge of the central panel section 22 there is provided a laterally stretchable elastic insert 25. At the rearward side of the central panel section 22, there is provided a diaphragm engaging stiffening lining 16, its upper edge conforming to the upper edge of the panel section 22, its side edges being secured by the seams 24-24 and its lower edge being upwardly arched and disposed just above the upper end of the insert 25. A pair of laterally spaced stay pockets 2'l-2l are secured substantially vertically upon the lining 25 in which are engaged stays 28-28, their upper ends being spaced substantially below the upper edge of the panel section 22.

The upper edge of the front panel portion is disposed substantially above the waistline and at its central portion is extended upwardly to engage between the busts of the wearer, the edge portions at each side of this upwardly extending central portion being concavely curved and inclined downwardly and outwardly at each side to the points of connection with the seam line 51 at one side and the hook and eye fastener 2i at the other side, these connection points be ing substantially above the waistline.

The upper front brassiere section of the garment comprises bust pocket formations 29-49 and a lower band or yoke 30 secured to the lower edges of the pocket formations and overlying the upper part of the lower panel section, above the waistline, the lower edge of this band or yoke being secured at its ends substantially at the waistline and being arched upwardly between these secured ends.

Between the upwardly extending central portion at the upper end of the panel section 22 and the central point of the upper edge of the brassierebust pocket formations 29 there is provided a vertically elastic suspension tape 3!, secured at its respective ends by the stitching securing the edge bindings'to the panel section 22 and the pocket formations 29, and of such length that in the normal position of the garment, as shown in Fig. 3, it is under slight tension. Attached to the upper edges of the bust pocket formations are the forward ends of the shoulder straps 32, their rearward ends being connected to the upper edge of the back portion If] of the garment, preferably by means of short elastic tape connections 33. While these short elastic connections 33 are provided for the purpose of compensating for the downward pull of the back portion of the garment in assuming sitting or forward bending postures, the shoulder straps are themselves nonelastic, and provide a substantially non-stretching support between the shoulders of the wearer and the bust pocket formations of the garment, it being intended that the suspension support of I the shoulder straps will be sufficient to maintain aeo scc tape :3 I, and" thus allow the lower .frontpanel sec tion to haverelative extension movement with respectto the upper front brassieresection. At the lower edge of the garment there are provided suitably-arranged hose supporters 34.

In the normal standing posture of the'wearer the relatively movable parts of the garment are substantially in the positions illustrated in Fig. 3, the position of the forward brassire section being substantially fixed with respect to the bust through the non-stretchable support provided from the shoulders by the shoulder straps 32. The forward panel section of thecorsetstructure is normally supported from the upper edge of the brassiere section by the elastic suspension tape 3! The suspension tape is therefore normally under slight tension'an-d maintains the upper edge of the panel section substantiallytaut with a consequent maintenance of the smooth fitting relation of the upper marginal portion of the panel section underlying the band or yoke of the front I brassire section. This upper marginal portion is pliable, as the upper ends of the stays 28 are substantially spaced below the upper edge of the panel section, and in the normal standing posture these upper stay ends are slightly above the upwardly arched lower edge of the front brassire section.

In assuming a backward bending posture, as shown in Fig. 4, the brassire section maintains a substantially fixed relation with respect to the bust and shoulders, while the lengthening of the forward vertical central body line of the abdomen and diaphragm of the wearer causes the upper brassiere and lower panel sectionsto be extended with respect to each other, the elastic suspension tape 3i stretching to permit this relative extension movement. In resuming a standing posture the tension of the tape will maintain the smooth fitting relation of the upper marginal portion of the panel section, so that the overlying band or yoke of the brassiere section will slide smoothly thereon without causing bulges or wrinkles in the garment and without injurious pressure and crowding of the parts of the body.

In assuming a sitting or forward bending posture, as shown in Fig. 5, the forward brassire section will move relatively downward over the panel section. and as the lower edge of the band or yoke of the brassire section is arched above the waistline it will not tend to jam and prevent its free downward movement to the desired limit.

The elastic suspension tape also permits relative raising movement of one side of the brassiere section independentlv of the other. and such movement as may occur when the arm and shoulder at one side of the wearer is raised while the other arm and shoulder remain lowered. The flexibility of the general structure of the garment by arrangement of the elastic tape centrally of the upper edge of the brassire section allows the brassire section at one side to shift upwardly and downwardly while the other side remains substantially unaffected. The restoring action of the tape causes the garment to resume its normal position upon lowering the arm and shoulder at one side without any impedance from bulges or wrinkles in the garment, as the tension of the suspension tape prevents the formation of such bulges or wrinkles.

The overlapping intersecting relation of the upper edge of the panel section with respect to the lower edges of the bust pockets, as shown clearly in Fig. 2, is such that a garment of a given sizeiwlll readily accommodate itself to persons :of such given sizehaving considerable variation;

I have illustrated and described a'preferred and satisfactory embodiment of the invention, but it will'be understood that changes maybe made therein, within the spirit and scope thereof, as defined in the appended claims.

Having thus describedmy invention, what is claimedand desired to be secured by Letters Patentis:

l. A foundation garment comprising aback portion, sidepanels connected to said back'portion extending above and below the waistline, the upper edges of said side panels constituting the upper edges of the side portions of a brassire structure and the lower edges constituting the lower edges of the side portions of a corset structure, a front panel section secured between the forward'edges of said side panels, its upper edge being substantially abovethe waistline, and having its outer: ends'connected to said forward edges of said side panels at points intermediate said waistline and the upper ends of said forward edges, a front brassire section secured between the forward edges of said side panels having a lower band portion extending entirely across and overlying the upper marginal portion of said front panel and having its lower edge secured at its ends to the forward edges of said side panels below the connected ends of the upper edge of said front panel section and in substantial proximity to the waistline, shoulder straps connected between said front brassire section and said back portion adapted to support the upper edge of said front brassire section in substantially fixed relation to the portion of the wearers body engaged thereby, and a vertically elastic suspension member secured at its upper end to said relatively fixed upper edge of said front brassire section and secured at its lower end to the upper edge of said front panel section to yieldably support the latter.

2. A foundation garment comprising a back portion, side panels connected to said back portion extending above and below the waistline, the upper edges of said side panels constituting the upper edges of the side portions of a brassiere structure and the lower edges constituting the lower edges of the side portions of a corset structure, a front panel section secured between the forward edges of said side panels, its upper edge being extended upwardly at its central portion substantially above the waistline, and being arched downwardly and outwardly at each side of said central portion and connected at its outer ends to said forward edges of said side panels at points intermediate said waistline and the upper ends, of said forward edges, a front brassire section secured between the forward edges of said side panels having a lower band portion extending entirely across and overlying the upper marginal portion of said front panel and having its lower edge arched upwardly between its ends and secured at its ends-to the forward edges of said side panels below the connected ends of the upper edge of said front panel section and in substantial proximity to the waistline, shoulder straps connected between said front brassire section and said back portion adapted to support the upper edge of said front brassire section in substantially fixed relation to the portion of the wearers body engaged thereby, and a vertically elastic suspension member secured at its upper end to said relatively fixed upper edge of said front brassire section and secured at its lower end to the upwardly extended central portion of the upper edge of said front panel section to yieldably support the latter.

.3. A foundation garment comprising a back portion, side panels connected to said back portion extending above and below the waistline, the upper edges of said side panels constituting the upper edges of the side portions of a brassiere structure and the lower edges constituting the lower edges of the side portions of a corset and intersecting the arched portions of the upper edge of said front panel section at each side, and a lower band portion extending entirely across and overlying the upper marginal portion of said front panel and having its lower edge secured at its ends to the forward edges of said side panels below the connected ends of the upper edge of said front panel section and in substantial proximity to the waistline, shoulder straps connected between said front brassiere section and said back portion adapted to support the upper edge of said front brassiere section in substantially fixed relation to the portion of the wearer's body engaged thereby, and a vertically elastic suspension member secured at its upper end to said relatively fixed upper edge of said front brassire section and secured at its lower end to the upwardly extended central portion of the upper edge of said frontpanel section to yieldably support the latter.

'JOHN V. I-IOLLAR. 

